"Welcome to La Farm" said a young lady wearing a neat yellow apron as I walked into Lionel Vatinet's La Farm Bakery in Cary, NC. Outside, there were tables that could be compared to a coffee shop on a grand Paris boulevard. Perhaps not with all the glamor of Paris, but undoubtedly with its charm. As I opened the door, I was amazed by the character of the place, by its size, and how tastefully it was decorated.
As my eyes surveyed La farm, I spied the wood beams overhead, which lend it a rustic feel. The bakery is formed by two rooms combined and connected by a exposed brick arch. On one side are the baked goods and on the other side, dining tables surrounded by large farm windows that enhance the feel and make it look cozy and comfortable. There are an impressive variety of breads, baked goods, pastries and neatly placed samples. Lionel's Book "A Passion for Bread" is showcased in one shelf full of ground coffee and scone mixes for sale.
Employees almost dance a waltz around the tables serving fresh coffee and breakfast sandwiches, trying to keep up with the busy demand. It is a bakery and a cafe. And the sandwiches sold in the cafe show how a little creativity can make his bread taste even better.
I nearly succumbed to the smell of freshly baked bread and coffee as I waited to interview Lionel.
Lionel Vatinet is a master baker in the French traditional style. When he was sixteen, he started his apprenticeship that lasted seven years in Les Compagnons du Devoir in France and then traveled all over the world learning and teaching about his passion. He still travels, does consulting and teaches classes at several locations including his own bakery.
He arrives for the interview wearing casual clothes; what surprises me is his simplicity. As well known as he is, he is just so accessible and humble. Later on he will tell me that "The Compagnons du Devoir is also a philosophy of life."
He is completely happy to talk about bread, and tells me how important quality is to him. He uses only local and organic Flours and his preferred source is Carolina Ground. Sprouting his own grains and using liquid levain in about 80% of all his breads takes his products to another level: making them healthy and delicious. It is truly a traditional bakery as breads baked with levain will need a longer time to prepare. Feeding his levain twice daily he controls the acidity, taste and results. Aside from levain, La Farm uses Pate fermetee and poolish. "Long fermented dough will give my clients a flavorful and healthy bread," he adds and continues "to make good bread a baker needs to understand fermentation."
I learned that aside from the breads I see showcased that specific day (12-15 types!), they have an impressive variety of specialty bread recipes that are only available on holidays, special occasions, and as the bread of the month.
La Farm also sells products at various farmer's markets, whole food stores and online.
Lionel explained how things were different 25 years ago when he first came to America. "The USA had the culture of wonder bread. Families brought it home once a week and froze it. There were only a few artisan bakeries in California, New York, and Washington DC. But since then, the movement for better breads began growing, and everywhere I saw the opening of new small bakeries and I was part of it. I love it!"
Lionel enthuses: "Once a customer tries a good quality artisan bread such as the ones them bake, they can taste the difference and become hooked."
"What I love about bread is that there are so many variables - the ingredients, the temperature, the fermentation. You learn it from somebody, but you become your own baker."
He also emphasizes how lucky he was to have found a wife, Missy, that is also a business partner and that has great ideas to improve their business. They are thinking about expanding. I hope someday they will open up a bakery in Durham.
Interview:
Q.
What was the most memorable experience you had during your apprenticeship with Les Compagnons Du Devoir?
A. The feeling of fraternity and unity upon my acceptance and arrival.I felt I would never have to walk alone.
Q. You traveled all over the world learning and perfecting you craft. Why did you choose NC to be home of your La Farm Bakery?
A. The Research Triangle was what drew us to the area, we felt there was a culture here that would appreciate European
bread and it was a place where we could build a business and raise a family and be successful at both.
Q.
Was it hard for you to adapt from European ingredients to American ingredients? Do you miss any ingredient in particular?
A. No, the ingredients for bread baking that
are available in America are very high quality. The area of pastry does
require some European ingredients, but not so much with bread.
Q. How hard it is to
own your bakery? People have a very romantic idea of becoming a baker
not taking into consideration the work and dedication. What challenges
you most?
A. It is not as easy as you would think. I am lucky to have my wife,
Missy, who understands business and marketing.
My biggest challenge is human resources – finding the right people who
will embrace our company values.
Q. What is your favorite bread to bake and to eat?
A. My signature bread, the La Farm, is my favorite, but I also like the
multigrain. Both breads are made with locally
grown and milled grains they have wonderful texture and flavor.
Q. What is the most popular bread at La Farm Bakery?
A. The La Farm and the White Chocolate Mini Baguettes.
At the end of the interview breads were chosen... he suggested quite a few, thinking about my husband and my daughters also. He said, "I know you daughters will love the white chocolate baguette and the chocolate scone, and I want you to try this bread made with three flours, flax seed and sunflower seed". He continues, "you are Brazilian,you have got to taste a good coffee, choose one to drink." And I select a cappuccino, made with a beautiful heart drawing on it. He also gave me a piece of a wonderful fougasse made with olive oil, garlic and herbs from his own back yard.
So, I got home with a big smile on my face and with a bag filled with bread. My husband said: "How wonderful you got so much bread, let's freeze some." The truth is, the bread was so good the we devoured them all on the same day!!!!
At the end of dinner my daughter said "that man knows how to make bread!"
After all, I got so inspired that I made his Rye Bread, that can be found on page 241 of his book: A Passion For Bread
Here are my results:
A beautiful and delicious bread.
Come and EAT BREAD WITH ME :) !!!!!
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